03-20-2021, 09:40 AM
Just so those of you know, I thought it g-code was encrypted at first when trying to open in regular notepad, but no it's written in Chinese!
You can open the Chinese g-code file in notepad++ (open source editor)...(Will open it properly..)
Then copy and paste into google translate..
Paste English translation into a new text file and remove empty spaces between the code..
Do any needed edits and you are good to go!
I think the files are the pretty much the same for the Mars series... but nice to start with the original one for your exact printer...
======
Great for doing the Z-calibration as mentioned here in this Mars 3D thread: https://www.elegoomars.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=218
For those doing precision work, XYZ may need to be exact..
For action figures you will probably never notice any difference so no need to bother.
If you are confused by that long thread here is a simplified version:
Step 1) Print your calibration block (IE 20mm high block) (some pre-made ones in that thread for download)
Step 2) Measure z height of printed block with calipers. (get some cheap on ebay or at harbor freight)
Write down the amount in MM that your printed block it is short in the Z.
Step 3) Take that number and change M8084 in g-code by that amount (Default is M8084 Z0)
For example: My block is short by .29mm so after edit looks like this: M8084 Z-.29 (Make sure you don't forget the minus sign)
That number offsets (lifts up) the build table by that exact amount in the Z where printing will now begin.
Note that because your build table will now begin a bit higher than before, you may need to adjust your bottom layer adhesion time a bit..
if you suddenly begin to have problems with parts not sticking to the build table... (ADD perhaps 10-15 seconds, to the bottom layer time depending on resin- if needed...)
If your build table ever moves when removing prints, change M8084 back to zero, re-level and begin calibration again from scratch...
To explain what's going on here: If your block is short in Z it's because your build table is set too low...too close to the FEP.
Therefore the first layers become compressed (super thin), thus makes a difference in overall height...
Hope that makes sense?
(tip: Hold build table at 90 degrees when removing prints... meaning keep the build table @ 90 (perpendicular) to table so the screw knob does not touch your table..
(This mean less chance of being knocked out of position by the downward force applied when removing parts)...
Good luck!
You can open the Chinese g-code file in notepad++ (open source editor)...(Will open it properly..)
Then copy and paste into google translate..
Paste English translation into a new text file and remove empty spaces between the code..
Do any needed edits and you are good to go!
I think the files are the pretty much the same for the Mars series... but nice to start with the original one for your exact printer...
======
Great for doing the Z-calibration as mentioned here in this Mars 3D thread: https://www.elegoomars.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=218
For those doing precision work, XYZ may need to be exact..
For action figures you will probably never notice any difference so no need to bother.
If you are confused by that long thread here is a simplified version:
Step 1) Print your calibration block (IE 20mm high block) (some pre-made ones in that thread for download)
Step 2) Measure z height of printed block with calipers. (get some cheap on ebay or at harbor freight)
Write down the amount in MM that your printed block it is short in the Z.
Step 3) Take that number and change M8084 in g-code by that amount (Default is M8084 Z0)
For example: My block is short by .29mm so after edit looks like this: M8084 Z-.29 (Make sure you don't forget the minus sign)
That number offsets (lifts up) the build table by that exact amount in the Z where printing will now begin.
Note that because your build table will now begin a bit higher than before, you may need to adjust your bottom layer adhesion time a bit..
if you suddenly begin to have problems with parts not sticking to the build table... (ADD perhaps 10-15 seconds, to the bottom layer time depending on resin- if needed...)
If your build table ever moves when removing prints, change M8084 back to zero, re-level and begin calibration again from scratch...
To explain what's going on here: If your block is short in Z it's because your build table is set too low...too close to the FEP.
Therefore the first layers become compressed (super thin), thus makes a difference in overall height...
Hope that makes sense?
(tip: Hold build table at 90 degrees when removing prints... meaning keep the build table @ 90 (perpendicular) to table so the screw knob does not touch your table..
(This mean less chance of being knocked out of position by the downward force applied when removing parts)...
Good luck!