When playing with figures, it must be a light-curing printer. Combining a 3D scanner with a stereolithography printer makes it easier to create complex hand-made models. The three-dimensional data of the object is obtained through a 3D scanner, which can be directly converted into a digital model and then printed out with a light-curing printer. This saves time and effort in manual modeling while ensuring the accuracy and detail of the model.
![[Image: images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRCaEWnz80Se9AJbIfP_Cn...w&usqp=CAU]](https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRCaEWnz80Se9AJbIfP_Cn5ZLqBA5iyMaNxuw&usqp=CAU)
I personally feel that ELEGOO’s Saturn 2 should be more balanced in various parameters. 10-inch 8K black and white screen, suitable price.
![[Image: Saturn2_610x610_crop_center.jpg?v=1702455899]](https://www.elegoo.com/cdn/shop/files/Saturn2_610x610_crop_center.jpg?v=1702455899)
The UV resin used in light-curing printers is cured by being irradiated with light of a certain wavelength and then formed layer by layer. Its molding mode is actually a "layer-by-layer molding" mode. However, there are still some differences from FDM. It’s accuracy. The Z accuracy of light curing is generally 0.01mm, while FDM is only 0.1MM. Therefore, the light-cured layer texture is less noticeable than FDM.
As mentioned earlier, light-curing printers also use "layer molding" for molding. If the model is placed at the wrong angle, light-curing can also give you terraced layers or various obvious textures.
Moreover, different brands and models of light-cured resin have different characteristics. But the commonality is that the optimal printing temperature is around 25 degrees. Too high or too low can easily lead to printing failure.
If the temperature is too low, the fluidity of the resin will be low and it will become more viscous. If the exposure time does not change accordingly, and the Z lifting speed and lifting distance are not set accordingly, printing can easily fail. The same is true if the temperature is too high. The resin will have fluidity, but the layer may fall off (not stick).
Almost none of the light-cured resins are odorless, and low-odor resins only have less unpleasant chemical smells.
I personally feel that ELEGOO’s Saturn 2 should be more balanced in various parameters. 10-inch 8K black and white screen, suitable price.
The UV resin used in light-curing printers is cured by being irradiated with light of a certain wavelength and then formed layer by layer. Its molding mode is actually a "layer-by-layer molding" mode. However, there are still some differences from FDM. It’s accuracy. The Z accuracy of light curing is generally 0.01mm, while FDM is only 0.1MM. Therefore, the light-cured layer texture is less noticeable than FDM.
As mentioned earlier, light-curing printers also use "layer molding" for molding. If the model is placed at the wrong angle, light-curing can also give you terraced layers or various obvious textures.
Moreover, different brands and models of light-cured resin have different characteristics. But the commonality is that the optimal printing temperature is around 25 degrees. Too high or too low can easily lead to printing failure.
If the temperature is too low, the fluidity of the resin will be low and it will become more viscous. If the exposure time does not change accordingly, and the Z lifting speed and lifting distance are not set accordingly, printing can easily fail. The same is true if the temperature is too high. The resin will have fluidity, but the layer may fall off (not stick).
Almost none of the light-cured resins are odorless, and low-odor resins only have less unpleasant chemical smells.