I've tried everything to get test took to stick!!!

[AeRo0]

Hi,

I received my Elegoo Mars Pro 5 days ago and have not been able to successfully print the test file. I have tried at least 10 times, leveling the build plate after every print.

I am using 3dJake resin: https://www.3djake.com/3djake/resin-light-grey I tried both with light grey and dark blue but neither was successful.

I tried different exposure settings, anywhere from the stock 5 bottom layers at 45 seconds and 6 seconds per layer to 10 bottom layers at 150 seconds and 20 seconds per layer but none of them were successful.

After every failed print I releveled my build plate. I tried using 3 different pieces of paper with different thickness but nothing helped. I noticed that when I tighten the screws the paper at the back of the build plate is a bit easier to move and the front is really tight, so when I tighten the screws I hold down the plate a little harder in the back, but when fully tight the paper is still looser in the back of the build plate than in the front.

The build plate screws were also hard to turn both when loosening them and when tightening them so I put on the spare screws but still got an unsuccessful print.

I also put electrical tape on the sides between the screen and the FEP but that didn't help either.

I also resliced the test print file in case the one on the USB was corrupted but that was unsuccessful as well.

Today I got some spare FEP sheets (actually the EPAX non FEP sheets) out but no luck with that either. I also tried PTFE lube on the FEP but nothing's helping.

I also noticed that my build plate isn't centered to the screen. 

The only thing I haven't tried is sanding the build plate but I'm leaving that as a last resort, the Mars Pro build plate is already very textured.

Please let me know what else I can do to troubleshoot the issue, or if I have a problem with my printer.

Thanks in advance.

[cliffyk]

I had build plate adhesion problems with my Mars purchased earlier this year and used a 320 grit disk in a Dewalt random orbit sander to "break" the glaze on the plate's finish--just 3 to 4 seconds of contact, problem solved. You could probably do it manually as well. You don't need to (and shouldn't) remove any of the finish, just deglaze it...

[Feksimele]

Hi,

I received my Elegoo Mars Pro 5 days ago and have not been able to successfully print the test file. I have tried at least 10 times, leveling the build plate after every print.

I am using 3dJake resin: https://www.3djake.com/3djake/resin-light-grey I tried both with light grey and dark blue but neither was successful.

I tried different exposure settings, anywhere from the stock 5 bottom layers at 45 seconds and 6 seconds per layer to 10 bottom layers at 150 seconds and 20 seconds per layer but none of them were successful.

After every failed print I releveled my build plate. I tried using 3 different pieces of paper with different thickness but nothing helped. I noticed that when I tighten the screws the paper at the back of the build plate is a bit easier to move and the front is really tight, so when I tighten the screws I hold down the plate a little harder in the back, but when fully tight the paper is still looser in the back of the build plate than in the front.

The build plate screws were also hard to turn both when loosening them and when tightening them so I put on the spare screws but still got an unsuccessful print.

I also put electrical tape on the sides between the screen and the FEP but that didn't help either.

I also resliced the test print file in case the one on the USB was corrupted but that was unsuccessful as well.

Today I got some spare FEP sheets (actually the EPAX non FEP sheets) out but no luck with that either. I also tried PTFE lube on the FEP but nothing's helping.

I also noticed that my build plate isn't centered to the screen. 

The only thing I haven't tried is sanding the build plate but I'm leaving that as a last resort, the Mars Pro build plate is already very textured.

Please let me know what else I can do to troubleshoot the issue, or if I have a problem with my printer.

Thanks in advance.

Hi I have the exact same issue. I also (try to) print with 3dJakes Resin in Black and get to the same height before the print begins to fail. Because of this thread i'm thinking of trying another brand of Resin?! Did you have any luck in the last 3 Weeks? And if so what did you do. I'm very anxious to finally get my first good print. Too many FEP films had been lost in this battle for having nothing accomplished.

[Umpa]

Now - same here... My problem is that I was using MakerJuice G+ whilst I waited for delivery of my Grey ABS like resin from Elegoo.

The resin was curing but not sticking to the platform, instead sticking to the tray bottom. I levelled the platform time and time again using a sheet of A4 paper cut in half.

Then the resin was delivered, but this time I decided to level the platform "WITHOUT' the paper - straight down on the glass, pressing firm with my fingers whilst tightening up the screws.

Put the new Grey resin in, and it worked first time. Next I am going to print the same Rook model again but using MakerJuice G+ again to see if it is the resin or the levelling that was the problem.

Also you can always pause the print after a short while, like 20mins or so to check if the print is taking or not.

[cliffyk]

"Break" the glaze on the platen's finish and these problems will be behind you...

[Umpa]

"Break" the glaze on the platen's finish and these problems will be behind you...

I found out that I have no problem printing with Elegoo's ABS-Like Grey (what ever that means) resin - only with 3rd party resins.  Specifically the MakerJuice G+ that I have from my form 1 days.

I seriously doubt roughing up the platform would help in my situation.  For me its messing with the settings to see if I can use G+ or not.

I have a delivery of water washable and standard Elegoo resin shipping tomorrow - I will know more then.  So far I am impressed with this little MSLA, might even get a Saturn..

[GiveMeaResin]

I had build plate adhesion problems with my Mars purchased earlier this year and used a 320 grit disk in a Dewalt random orbit sander to "break" the glaze on the plate's finish--just 3 to 4 seconds of contact, problem solved. You could probably do it manually as well. You don't need to (and shouldn't) remove any of the finish,  just deglaze it...

So basically just take off the top layer of "shine" on the plate? I came onto the thread tonight wondering the same thing as I am getting no adhesion to the plate and after about 20 minutes or so there is a small "cake" of cured resin on the fep at the bottom of the vat.

[Umpa]

Yes - but also make sure your platform is levelled and you are using the correct resin and cure times. If these are wrong you will still have problems.

[fromFDMtoSLA]

Umpa is 100% right - most of the problems come from bad leveling and wrong exposure settings - cleaning of the build plate (with IPA) is also important

[cliffyk]

I had build plate adhesion problems with my Mars purchased earlier this year and used a 320 grit disk in a Dewalt random orbit sander to "break" the glaze on the plate's finish--just 3 to 4 seconds of contact, problem solved. You could probably do it manually as well. You don't need to (and shouldn't) remove any of the finish,  just deglaze it...

So basically just take off the top layer of "shine" on the plate? I came onto the thread tonight wondering the same thing as I am getting no adhesion to the plate and after about 20 minutes or so there is a small "cake" of cured resin on the fep at the bottom of the vat.

Yes, just "rough it up" a tiny bit. Were I doing it by hand I'd use 220 or 400 grit Wet-or-Dry paper (wet)..