Simply can't successfully print on our new Mars Pro.

[braindeaf]

We've just set aside today to try out our new Mars Pro and honestly, no success and we're feeling pretty deflated and like we've wasted our money.

We went simple, we bought a Mars Pro from 3DJake with a deal with three lots of Resin. Followed the instructions to the letter to get started and print the Rook test piece from the supplied CBT file. Both times the result is resin solidifying in the tray with two 4mm thick discs left in the centre. 

I'd understand us messing up something complex but we started simple because we want to learn. Any advice to get us going?

[fromFDMtoSLA]

did you level the build-plate?

[Peca]

I've similar issue with my first attempts to print. Then I watch some videos then recalibrate and sand my buildplate. I gueass that sand of buildplate is not necessary. Just level buildplate in way an sheet of office paper can move with only slight friction between display and buildplate. Adjust times for fists layers too - I use 80 seconds for 3S Jake Light Gray resin (8 sec for rest of printlayeres). Lower lift speed could help too.

[JasonsBigBox]

A few people have had problems with the preloaded rook prints. Reslicing might help.

I had problems with parts sticking to the film rather than the bed. Changing the first layer exposure to 90s seems to ‘bake’ the part to the bed better.

Once I had that sorted, the most common problem I’ve had is parts falling off the support structure. Supports are a balance between the support strength and the strength of the part attachment to the film. The weakest point is where the part attaches to the support so if it fails you need to add more points or increase their size. Both can impact part finish.

I’m currently using Prusa Slicer for support generation and then converting the file to ctb format.

Hope this is of some help!

J

[cliffyk]

A few people have had problems with the preloaded rook prints. Reslicing might help.

I had problems with parts sticking to the film rather than the bed. Changing the first layer exposure to 90s seems to ‘bake’ the part to the bed better.

Once I had that sorted, the most common problem I’ve had is parts falling off the support structure. Supports are a balance between the support strength and the strength of the part attachment to the film. The weakest point is where the part attaches to the support so if it fails you need to add more points or increase their size. Both can impact part finish.

I’m currently using Prusa Slicer for support generation and then converting the file to ctb format.

Hope this is of some help!

J

Re: "supports", i have also found that in SLA printing, it helps in placing them to think of them as "hangers" rather than as supports--as that it their function with our printers. With FDM technology they do support (provide a platform for) as yet unprinted, inherently unsupported, and other components unable to brace themselves against the force of gravity.

In SLA printing, while gravity is of course an issue, the also suspend as yet unprinted components and also assist such components when tearing free from the FEP. In resin printing they are loaded in tension, not compression, making the robustness of their attachment to the model more critical then in filament printing.

Unfortunately when properly and sufficiently used they do blemish surface finish as "jasonBigBox" stated and as with this tool I printed this afternoon:



This was an especially bulky and heavy model--a tool for operating the numerous 1" PVC ball valves on our water system¹--so it doesn't matter. If you are printing something where it would matter consider model orientation to shift hanger contact points to less obvious (or easy to sand/finish) surfaces.

--------------------------------------------
¹ - Between my arthritis and that these valves had not been closed in 1/-1/2 years I was having difficulty operating them; I broke the handle off one attempting to operate it with a 12" Crescent wrench and had to devise a plan "B".  The "printed" slotted socket fits ovr the valve's plastic handle, contacting both levers--it is driven with a 3/4" box wrench.

[JasonsBigBox]

You can't beat a bit of practical printing! Good work cliffyk, I know what it's like to have problems with your joints.

braindeaf, please let us know if you're still having problems. It's always good to see if you've solved them and how.


J