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Mars 2 Pro no joy :(
#1
So after a few years of FDM printing I decided to jump in and try out resin printing. I picked out the new Mars 2 Pro. Unfortunately, I've only been able to print the test Rook that came on the thumb drive. I'm using Elegoo Red Transparent resin. Every time I try to print a model of my own all I get are the supports. It appears that once it gets down to the layers of the actual model it gets stuck to the FEP film and tears away from the supports. OK, so I then decided it must need stronger supports and I replace all with heavy supports. Empty the tank clean everything all over again and same result. I've tried bumping up bottom layer count to 8 seconds and exposer time to 3 seconds and bottom exposure time to 80 seconds. Still, same results. I've tried using RainX on the FEP film and also tried the tape hack under the resin take. Still, same results. At this point I'm getting very discouraged and thinking of returning the printer. What else could I be missing?

EDIT:
So it looks like my issue was with leveling the plate. Using two sheets thickness solved my problems and have been getting consistently good prints.
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#2
i was going crazy for the same reason...now the print started!...

thank you for sharing the solution Smile

I let you know if the print works Smile
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#3
I do not own a Pro 2, and I know it's curing lamp is supposed to much more powerful--hoewver 3 s seems like an awfully short exposure. I'd bump that to 5 s and see what happens. Also, in resin printing I find it helps to envision the "supports" as "hangers", they do ot support printed portions of the model, the already printed parts of the model hang from them--I.e. it is important that they are sufficient in number and sufficiently robust to tear the current layer from the FEP.

Just as an FWIW, here are the "hangers" I use for a press-fit plumbing elbow I have printed successfully several times:

[Image: ChlorineEll-00.jpg]

Aligning the model at an angle minimises the area of each layer, minimising the force needed to pull it from the FEP.
-cliff knight-
[Image: 816-20120803-wide800.jpg]
paladinmicro.com
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#4
I tryed leveling the plate with two sheets.... and even 3.... it doesn't work...
I CANT SET THE ZERO PLATE POSITION!!... it shouldn't be that difficult....

after the calibration I start a print.... the plate goes down...and it pushes too hard apparently... I can hear an awful noise as if the motor is trying to push down and down trying to fing the zero position.... which the printer doesn't seems to record when I calibrate it...
I even noticed that when I tighten the screws that keep the plate in position.... this moves a bit every.. every time... so so frustrating

what am I doing wrong?....
the only 3d file I was able to print is the test elegoo rook file.... not even the minifactory files.... I'ts 3 days and so many attempts... I'm feeling the 3d printer has a problem!
any suggestions? tips and tricks?

does anyone had this happening?
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#5
It sounds to me as though the ball on the platen mount is not round, or has one or more flat spots--it should not move when the locking screws are snugged up as the ball rides in a split sleeve upon which locking screws exert force.

Here's what it all looks like with the sleeve still in it's socket:

[Image: BallMount-00.jpg]

Here the sleeve has been removed:

[Image: BallMount-01.jpg]

It is good practice to round off the end of the locking screws (remove the projecting ridges left over from when the treads were formed):

[Image: BallMount-02.jpg]

To disassemble it:
  • loosen the lock screws;
  • carefully loosen the small socket set screw that holds it all together (it will fly apart when the set screw is just partially removed);
  • fully remove the set screw to remove the split sleeve;
Clean everything to remove old lubricant and debris, then apply a VERY light coat of high pressure grease¹ (SynLube's PTFE is good) to the ball and end's of the lock screws; and assemble in reverse order.

When tightening the lock screws remember you are not replacing a wheel on your car, just a bit "snug" is all it takes.

---------------------------------------
¹ - This is counter-intuitive, but trust me, the grease prevents the sleeve and ball from "walking" as the assembly is locked up.
-cliff knight-
[Image: 816-20120803-wide800.jpg]
paladinmicro.com
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#6
Useful stuff, thank you. ATB Chris
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#7
I got a mars pro yesterday, ready to send the bloody thing back. tried to print the test Rook file TWICE now, all I get is a coin sized disc. 1 on the first try, 2 on the second.
Seen so many youtube videos saying out the box blah blah blah dead simple. Crap. I will try for a couple more days then bin it. Not wasting my time or anymore money on stuff that does not work. I have set the home position, Second print the discs were stuck to the vat membrane. Should this work out of the box as so many geeks say so with the usb stick, provided by elegoo? Or do I have to download more software? Getting fed up with it now.
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#8
The mirror-like surface finish on the Pro platen (build-plate) is just plain wrong--see my thread here--I don't knwo what Elegoo was thinking,  unless they tested it with that damned useless "water washable" resin which likes the ultra-polished finish.

Roughen it up a bit with 400 or finer grit paper, or a scrub-pad ad some have done--your problem is not "Sticking to the FEP film", but rather "not sticking to the platen"...
-cliff knight-
[Image: 816-20120803-wide800.jpg]
paladinmicro.com
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