cliffyk Wrote: most (probably ALL) resins touted as "ABS-like" are so brittle as to be useless for making anything but the most lightly loaded components
Most? Perhaps, I have not tried that many of ABS-like resins personally, but from feedback by others I know that many of them are far from perfect. Fortunately, some of them are good enough to be actually useful. For example, I use FUNGDO ABS-Like resin ($32/L including shipping) to print functional parts and it is very durable, unlike some other resins I have tried so far. I have printed many parts with hinges or which have to remain durable under load or snap together regularly, and so far so good. Their "low viscosity ABS-like" resin ($34/L right now, but usually $38/L) is also has good temperature resistance (Glass Transition Temperature 125°C). Both resins stick very well to the bed without too much overexposure, so I can print many parts directly on the bed with reasonable bottom layer compensation around -0.15mm depending on layer height, including gears and other parts, where having an elephant foot would be unacceptable. I calibrated exposure so that I do not need compensation for normal layers (for example, I can print 4.9mm and 5mm cylinders, and 4.9mm one can fit in 5mm hole easily but 5mm cylinder does not fit in it). FUNGDO also has "high toughness ABS-like" resin which is very resistant to breaking, but it costs twice as much as their normal ABS-like resin and has 80°C glass transition temperature and does not stick to the bed as good as their "low viscosity ABS-like" version.
The reason why I got into MSLA printing is because FDM was not good enough to produce some parts I need, they were too brittle or had distorted shape (especially when printing with real ABS, which warps easily and can be very brittle along layers, depending on wall thickness), and actual resolution of FDM printer is not good enough to produce smooth surfaces or fine details such as threads (for example. even though I managed to print some M12 threads with 0.5mm pitch, they needed a lot of postprocessing to actually work with good tolerances and could be successfully printed only in one orientation). But with UV resin, I can print the same parts and use them right away without any postprocessing (except curing and washing, but it is easy with ultrasound bath).
It would be a big disappointment to me if only so called "standard" resins existed which are not durable at all. For example, with ELEGOO resins my experience is not very good, the resin I have tried from them does not stick very well to the bed even with long exposure and some parts can drop to the vat during printing (even the parts I know I can print 100% reliably on the bed with the better resin), and resulting parts are brittle, to the point parts can break during manual cleaning (I prefer to remove most of the resin residue with paper towels before using ultrasound bath) even with wall thickness 2-3mm, or if they are dropped on the floor from small height, or after few uses under light load. The same parts printed with good ABS-like resin can have almost the same rigidy but without being so ridiculously brittle. I'm sure FUNGDO is not the only option and there are good ABS-Like alternatives from other brands, but many of them come at a greater cost (or seemingly similar cost but without including shipping, so actual cost is 1.5-2x higher at checkout), so I have not tried them, and many cheap ABS-like resins are not much better than "standard" resins. But even with FUNGDO resins, the actual cost depends on where you shop... For example, for the same resin, Amazon offers expensive $25 shipping, but on AliExpress shipping is free.
It is worth mentioning that for many parts, FDM printer is still a better choice for various reasons, and ABS filament is significantly cheaper ($12-$14/kg in my country) than ABS-like resin. I still prefer FDM when it will not cause issues for a particular part and when FDM precision is sufficient for it. But even if the price was the same, I would not be able to print everything with resin only, or with filament only. I think of ABS-like resin as of one more useful printing material in my toolbox, with its own pros and cons. "ABS-like" by itself is just a marketing term, and even one manufacturer can have very different resins marked as "ABS-like", with different hardness and different temperature resistances.