Build plate not able to level properly - suggestions?

[Digital Darth]

I have recently purchased an Elegoo Mars 2 Mono printer and have been experiencing issues leveling the build plate.

I have releveled the plate many times, following various instructions online (paper method and FEP method). The issue that I am having, is that no matter how I hold the plate when tightening the hex bolts, when I am done the right side is slightly higher than the left. Even holding down just the right side while tightening, the paper will always get less pressure when removing on the right than the left.
I am able to make prints that are centered, but anything that is off to the right side will end up stuck to the FEP after just a few layers.

Is this possibly an issue with the hex bolts, or the build plate itself?.. or is this more likely a user issue and I just need to spend some more time troubleshooting?

[rayman]

I have recently purchased an Elegoo Mars 2 Mono printer and have been experiencing issues leveling the build plate.

I have releveled the plate many times, following various instructions online (paper method and FEP method). The issue that I am having, is that no matter how I hold the plate when tightening the hex bolts, when I am done the right side is slightly higher than the left. Even holding down just the right side while tightening, the paper will always get less pressure when removing on the right than the left.
I am able to make prints that are centered, but anything that is off to the right side will end up stuck to the FEP after just a few layers.

Is this possibly an issue with the hex bolts, or the build plate itself?.. or is this more likely a user issue and I just need to spend some more time troubleshooting?

Hello, i just bought also a Mars 2 mono and have the same problem
Only the centred part is printed and the rest stuck on my FEP.

Hope someone can help us with this problem

[Digital Darth]

So, I am still struggling with this myself, but I have found that it may be partially due to overtightening the hex screws on the build plate. When the screws are a bit looser the plate is more level. I have now also had the plate loosen during print and ruin the print that way, but hopefully there is a sweet spot..
I emailed Elegoo support and they basically said to try another screw.. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[cliffyk]

So, I am still struggling with this myself, but I have found that it may be partially due to overtightening the hex screws on the build plate. When the screws are a bit looser the plate is more level. I have now also had the plate loosen during print and ruin the print that way, but hopefully there is a sweet spot..
I emailed Elegoo support and they basically said to try another screw.. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

I was going to suggest not over tightening the clamping screws--they are not lug nuts, firmly tight plenty...

[billtodd]

So, I am still struggling with this myself, but I have found that it may be partially due to overtightening the hex screws on the build plate. When the screws are a bit looser the plate is more level. I have now also had the plate loosen during print and ruin the print that way, but hopefully there is a sweet spot..
I emailed Elegoo support and they basically said to try another screw..  ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Might be worth checking that the build plate is actually flat.  If you have a good quality steel straight-edge or scale just check the plate for any bowing .

[cliffyk]

In the first, this process is not "leveling", it is an alignment. The term leveling is a carryover from FDM printing in which it is important for the build plate to actually be level (as in perpendicular to the force of gravity).

This may sound picayune, however the use precise terminology never hurt any engineering endeavor.

An issue I have found is that plain ol' 20 Lb. copy paper is only 0.09 mm thick, whereas the FEP is 0.15 mm--so, I use a piece of 24 lb. "parchment" paper that is 0.15 mm. Also other than experimentally as described in a footnote¹ I have never concerned myself with the "pull-out" resistance nonsense which seems to be something Elegoo added someplace along the line--there is no mention of same in the my original user guide:

(from my OEM manual)


"Picture 3" highlights the need to tighten the front clamping screw first.

It seems to be something added for some reason known only to Elegoo.

Here is the procedure I use (again, use heavier paper or even two sheets of standard copy paper²):



----------------------------------------------------------
¹- Through experimentation I found that as little as 0.01 mm difference in spacing between the platen and "paper" dramatically influenced pull-out resistance. In the context of aligning the platen with the FEP 0.01 mm (⅕ of a normal "layer") is irrelevant.

²- two layers of standard 20 lb. paper will be 0.18 mm, or a negligible 0.03 mm (30 microns) thicker that the FEP.