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Z Axis Height Calibration
#21
(10-26-2019, 05:18 AM)PolymerChecker Wrote: The problem is not directly the set=0 but that the reference point is not equal to the build plate zero point, but much more important that the drive motor and the damper give way differently, especially when the axle drives on a block. That's why I developed the adjustable Z-axis to adjust the reference point so that NO more force is applied to both the engine and the damper. With 2 sheets set the light barrier as distance and then go up 0.2mm and with SET=0 set the build plate.

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Technically, the trigger/reference point doesn't need to be adjusted, that's why the build plate is spring loaded.
You can level the plate in the home position and have continued repeatability of the home position equal to 0, but as soon as resin is introduced, the surface tension the resin between the build plate creates, causes an issue.

Either way, there are several solutions that yield the same result Smile
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#22
I think that such a hard driving over is not necessary for the light barrier and that there is always a slight shift of the zero point. In addition this leads to a possible spring fracture in the engine. The third video without the build plate shows exactly the behavior with my method. High repeatability of the different zero points.


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#23
(10-26-2019, 12:18 AM)admin Wrote: When you did it the 2nd time and did the first step of homing the build plate, then did the 0.1mm down 2 times, that actually took it .2mm lower then the home position.

What you would have wanted to do is do the homing position, then instead of the 0.9mm up, just do 0.7mm up, then tapped the z=0 to reset.

thanks, this helped - so "home" isn't going to the zero that you set, but rather goes to a factory default zero position.
i did it again as you said and a corner still didn't adhere to the build plate, so after cleaning the fep again i tried adjusting to 0.5mm up and that did it.  i could re-level (maybe after getting calipers) and get even better but this is nice, thanks.
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#24
Correct, home will always be the trigger sensor position.

By default home is z=0, but after you unlock the z=0 option and make any changes, then home is no longer z=0, if that makes any sense, lol.
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#25
(10-26-2019, 09:22 PM)admin Wrote: Correct, home will always be the trigger sensor position.

By default home is z=0, but after you unlock the z=0 option and make any changes, then home is no longer z=0, if that makes any sense, lol.

Yes, it makes sense, now Wink

Btw I believe I read a procedure for the photon that used z=0 where they used a paper under the plate and then moved the plate up in 0.1mm increments until the paper started to move. Something like that, not sure if I remember it all. I wonder if we could do that when leveling and avoid the calibration cubes?
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#26
(10-23-2019, 01:39 PM)To Polymerchecher
Hello,I am new and french on this forum and have a printer for 2 weeks and always problems with Z axis
the difference is 1.1 mm which misses.I try many ways,
I put ballbearing on the top of the Z axisI built your system and try without succes.
Probably don\t understand the correct processmy english not wonderful
But can you explain how you calibrate your screw with the spring on your system ?
is it before or after your explanation to calibrateWhen the printer makes the first layer,
must be the red led on or off ?
Hope you can understand my request
This machine seems good for details but this problem of first deleted layers is very pity
Thank by advance'
pid='556 Wrote:
Traduit avec www.DeepL.com/Translator
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#27
So I followed these steps and went to print a new 20mm cube. As the build plate lowered for the first time, I could hear repeated beeping as if it was having trouble zeroing in on the right position, and eventually I got an error saying the motor was overheated. I raised the build plate, let it drip into the vat, removed the vat and the plate and ran the exposure test, getting absolutely nothing. This was pretty stressful, since I'd just replaced the screen a few days before, but I shut off the printer and restarted it in case that did anything. Turns out, the exposure test worked again, and I was able to print the cube. It measured out to 20mm post-rinse and pre-cure.
So today I decide to print something else, a file I'd sliced before doing any of this. Halfway during the print, I noticed there was nothing stuck to the build plate. I canceled the job, emptied the vat, popped the cured resin pieces off the FEP and cleaned everything out. My FEP is banged up, so I thought I'd replace it and have no more issues.
Post-replacement, the exact same print (a print which has worked in the past) is giving me the exact same result. The only thing I've been able to successfully print so far are these cubes. Can I get some insight as to why this is happening, maybe?
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#28
(10-17-2019, 11:18 AM)admin Wrote: Awesome!!!

Please post your results afterwards Smile

Hello,

After many tests, I am without idea, I follow instructions with "accuracy height"
first print of a cube of 10 mm the result is L x l x H =   10.15 x 10.15 x 9.25

I try step 2 : no good result
any cube on the built plate, but a little square of few layers on the film FEP thickness near 0.5 mm
in Gcode I entered M8084 Z-0.75 , before the print,  I checked the film and the plate : clean

soon I used 0.5liter of resine for any good result and around 60 parts tests.
machine seems unable to make always the same thing on the start
if basement is not important the print is beautiful
but if you need a good size in height , it is for the moment impossible
can you help ?
thank you
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#29
(11-02-2019, 03:06 AM)oeildefaucon Wrote:
(10-17-2019, 11:18 AM)admin Wrote: Awesome!!!

Please post your results afterwards Smile

Hello,

After many tests, I am without idea, I follow instructions with "accuracy height"
first print of a cube of 10 mm the result is L x l x H =   10.15 x 10.15 x 9.25

I try step 2 : no good result
any cube on the built plate, but a little square of few layers on the film FEP thickness near 0.5 mm
in Gcode I entered M8084 Z-0.75 , before the print,  I checked the film and the plate : clean

soon I used 0.5liter of resine for any good result and around 60 parts tests.
machine seems unable to make always the same thing on the start
if basement is not important the print is beautiful
but if you need a good size in height , it is for the moment impossible
can you help ?
thank you
Have a look here... https://www.elegoomars.com/forum/showthr...544#pid544
Without a new z-motor without play it´s not literally solved but a pretty good workaround.
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#30
Hello,Thanks for your reply
I saw this post and tried it
the offset changes but not enough and I can't repeat
what email address do you use for a new motor?
but if the system to search Zero is the same, the problem will continue ...
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