!!!ALERT!!! - Pro-owners with build-plate adhesion issues

[cliffyk]

!!! CAUTION !!!

To all having problems with Mars Pro build-plate adhesion!

Short story: Try using Elegoo's water washable resin;

background:
I have found that the Elegoo Water Washable resin (WWR), has a rather high tensile strength when cured--and that it will adhere to a mirror finish build-plate just fine.


This is one of those "learned the hard way" things. As those who have been following this thread-->(Start Here...) know I bought a new "Pro' build-plate assembly a few days back. My initial impression was that its surface finish was too smooth (damned near mirror-like, see my posts above) and that was what was causing the numerous adhesion issues that have been reported. I had intended to break its shine with 220 grit paper tp test that theory, however through a series of unfortunate events I ended up scuffing it with a 60 grit disc.

On my first print--first print ever with the washable resin--the bottom layers struck like "it to a baby blanket' and had to be smashed off with a 2" chisel and hammer. i resurfaced the platen with 320 grit and tried again; a bit better but i still had to bang the print off the platen, and sand off some remaining resin (this gray washable stuff is HARD as a rock when cured).

I did a print with IPA washable resin and all was well. However going back to the WWR I once more found myself banging the model off the platen.

Considering it time for drastic action I fired up my 10" buffer and re-polished the build-plate to a near mirror shine--one more WW resin print and success--no platen adhesion issues and the model popped off the plate with a tap on thescraper, as it should.

Bottom line, if you do plan on using the WW resin DO NOT do any more than very lightly scuff up the build-plate.

FWIW I plan on bringing all this the attention of Elegoo's support team. They need tell "Pro" owners having platen adhesion problems to use the water washable resin....

[JasonsBigBox]

Interesting,

I’ve just received some of water washable resin so I’ll see if I get similar results.

What exposure settings are you using? Will shorter first layer times help?


Cheers

J

[cliffyk]

These are the settings with which I have had best results. on my plain ol' Mars:



At less than 9 s per layer (even @ 8 s) I had problems with the hangers¹ breaking off the main body of the print. I also cut back to 5 bottom layers at 60 s each. I don't know if the "translation layer" stuff² works with the Mars, but it cannot hurt to turn it on.

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¹- "supports" as Chitubox calls them, but as we print "upsde down" they are really hangers, loaded in tension.

pipe support--holds pipe above a mounting surface, full containment of ("adhesion" to) pipe to support not necessary--gravity and other forces do that


pipe hanger--suspends pipe below a mounting surface, must contain ("adhere" to) the suspended pipe against gravity/other forces


² - As I understand it the translation layer function is supposed to shift exposure in a linear fashion, during the bottom to "regular" layer transition--I.e. if set to 3 layers translation layer 1 would be exposed for 47.25 s (60 - (60-9) / 4), the next for 34.5 s, and a last transition layer for  21.75 s. What is unclear to is if the translation layers are in addition to the "bottom layer" setting count (I.e. 5 layers + 3 translation layers), or part of that count (5 layers, 3 of which are "translation" layers. Someday I need to time the bottom layers as they print and sort that out.