Partially failed models and a wobbly (overexposed?) bottom layer

[Sanfe360]

Hey, thanks for the advice, seems really useful. I'm looking forward to the rest of your results!

Unfortunately i think it's not what is happening with mine. I've not had adhesion problems with prints before with those settings.

Main problem for me are these extending lines of resin i think. Here's more pictures with tests i did - the wobbly stuff perfectly matches those lines visible when putting the paper on the screen (i can't compare to a working machine, so i'd love some feedback if those lines should be there at all!)





here is a video of the area flickering - is that normal, too?


https://imgur.com/a/2WbBqC4

and an even more obvious test setup:






no square = no horizontal line = no wobbly film there

Im having the exact same problem, and its driving me crazy, i cant seem to find anyone who has that problem but you

[cliffyk]

The Mars 2 Pro seems to have more than it's fair share of problems...

[tlactar]

Hey, thanks for the advice, seems really useful. I'm looking forward to the rest of your results!

Unfortunately i think it's not what is happening with mine. I've not had adhesion problems with prints before with those settings.

Main problem for me are these extending lines of resin i think. Here's more pictures with tests i did - the wobbly stuff perfectly matches those lines visible when putting the paper on the screen (i can't compare to a working machine, so i'd love some feedback if those lines should be there at all!)





here is a video of the area flickering - is that normal, too?


https://imgur.com/a/2WbBqC4

and an even more obvious test setup:






no square = no horizontal line = no wobbly film there

Im having the exact same problem, and its driving me crazy, i cant seem to find anyone who has that problem but you

Hey! Kinda... glad to not be the only one
I did contact Support and they said they'd send me a new LCD - i hope that's it. No idea when that will arrive as the tracking number they gave me isn't working.

What seems to reduce the associated issues of small wobble parts getting lose and ruining the prints is adding a few "bar" the width of you support rack to the buildplate in chitubox. This way the film clings to those and stays more or less in place.

[tlactar]

Hey there!

just wanted to let you know (and in case someone stumbles upon this with the same problems): Replacing the screen did solve the issue fully!

[cliffyk]

The LCD screen is a weak point in this technology--not due to any attempt at cost saving or other shortcoming on the part of any manufacturer, but rather due to the near UV¹ curing light's effect on the liquid crystal, the "LC"component of the display. The light eventually hardens the liquid crystal blocking their ability to "twist" when electricity is applied.

To back up a bit, the LCD shutter has three important layers, two passive and one active. THe passive layers are lower and upper polarizers arranged "out-of-phase" with each other so as to block light transmission through the stack (light polarized by the bottom layer cannot pass through the top layer, inb'twixt these two is the active layer, comprised of numerous cells each electrically accessible and containing liquid crystal material--when an a voltage is applied to a cell the LC "twists" re-orienting the light so that it can pass through the top polarizer and initiate curing of the resin.

Unfortunately prolonged exposure to the short wavelength light hardens the liquid rendering (no pun intended) the LCD shutter useless.
Monochrome LCDs resist this damaged better than colour LCDs, but nonetheless they are not immune and do fail. Elegoo warrants its colour LCDs for 3 months, the monochrome devices for 6 months. My experience with the colour shutters has been they are go for 250 to 300 hours of print time. Te monochrome LCDs do better, maybe lasting up to twice as long.

The printing issues ("melted", wobbly, perforated, etc.) introduced in this thread are 110% classic indications of a failed LCD shutter which in any printer a year-old or more should be the first suspect when such symptoms are observed--in fat if your color LCD printer is over 6-months-old nd has benn used even modestly (1-2 hours/day) you should order a new LCD now as you wil be needing it. Those with monochrome shutter printer a year or more old--again with even modest use--should do the same.

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¹ - The "UV" curing light in our printers is not really UV, at 405 nm wavelength it is humanly visible light at the deep blue.violet end of the visible spectrum).