G-code edits for all Elegoo printers

[Kirk444]

Just so those of you know, I thought it g-code was encrypted at first when trying to open in regular notepad, but no it's written in Chinese!

You can open the Chinese g-code file in notepad++ (open source editor)...(Will open it properly..)

Then copy and paste into google translate..

Paste English translation into a new text file and remove empty spaces between the code..

Do any needed edits and you are good to go!

I think the files are the pretty much the same for the Mars series... but nice to start with the original one for your exact printer...

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Great for doing the Z-calibration as mentioned here in this Mars 3D thread: https://www.elegoomars.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=218


For those doing precision work, XYZ may need to be exact..

For action figures you will probably never notice any difference so no need to bother.



If you are confused by that long thread here is a simplified version:

Step 1) Print your calibration block (IE 20mm high block) (some pre-made ones in that thread for download)

Step 2) Measure z height of printed block with calipers.  (get some cheap on ebay or at harbor freight)

Write down the amount in MM that your printed block it is short in the Z.

Step 3) Take that number and change M8084 in g-code by that amount (Default is M8084 Z0)

For example: My block is short by .29mm so after edit looks like this: M8084 Z-.29  (Make sure you don't forget the minus sign)

That number offsets (lifts up) the build table by that exact amount in the Z where printing will now begin.

Note that because your build table will now begin a bit higher than before, you may need to adjust your bottom layer adhesion time a bit..
if you suddenly begin to have problems with parts not sticking to the build table... (ADD perhaps 10-15 seconds, to the bottom layer time depending on resin- if needed...) 

If your build table ever moves when removing prints, change M8084 back to zero, re-level and begin calibration again from scratch...

To explain what's going on here:  If your block is short in Z it's because your build table is set too low...too close to the FEP.
Therefore the first layers become compressed (super thin), thus makes a difference in overall height...

Hope that makes sense?

(tip: Hold build table at 90 degrees when removing prints... meaning keep the build table @ 90 (perpendicular) to table so the screw knob does not touch your table..

(This mean less chance of being knocked out of position by the downward force applied when removing parts)...



Good luck!

[cliffyk]

It is worthy to once again note that the M8084 parameter only alters the "logical" zero position of the platen. The hardware physical "zero" position remains as determined by the Z-Axis limit switch and the "flag" at he base of the Z-Axis trolley.

When the "Platen Go Home" (my apologies to E.T.) button is pressed, or when the printer is initializing before a print job the platen will always descend to the physical limit switch determined zero position, and then rise to logical "zero" when firmware receives a g-code "goto zero" command.

[Kirk444]

It is worthy to once again note that the M8084 parameter only alters the "logical" zero position of the platen. The hardware physical "zero" position remains as determined by the Z-Axis limit switch and the "flag" at he base of the Z-Axis trolley.

When the "Platen Go Home" (my apologies to E.T.) button is pressed, or when the printer is initializing before a print job the platen will always descend to the physical limit switch determined zero position, and then rise to logical "zero" when firmware receives a g-code "goto zero" command.

Thanks Cliffy ~

In other words if the build table set too low... the initial zeroing could cause the build plate to press hard into the FEP, and not great especially if there is debris in the bottom of tank? 

So yes if that's the case then initial set up of the build plate first would be a good idea..

But I think what you are saying is that in either case the Z height will begin printing in the proper spot *once calibrated* via M08084? Or am I missing something?

Thanks for your help, greatly appreciated!

[cliffyk]

You are correct--the first motion of the platen the platen when starting a print job will be for it to ALWAYS descend to the limit switch controlled position--it has to so that the firmware will know where the true physical "0" position is. This makes the initial setup, alignment and adjustment, of the platen essential.

After that, when it receives a G-Code G0 or other "goto 0" command it will go to the "logical" 0 position established by the "Z=0" function (or as configured in the G-Code setup file). BTW I have never, with a properly adjusted platen--other than when experimenting to see what it does-- used or felt a need to use the "Z=0" function. Elegoo support initially described it to me as an adjunct procedure (a "time-saver") to be used if physical re-adjustment of the platen was inconvenient.

I believe that setting an M8084 value of other than Z0 (usually positive) in the stup G-Code does the same thing as usin the 'Z-0" function--however I have never validated this via experimentation. It would be interesting to load a setup file with M8084 set as "Z0", then align the platen and use the "Z=0' function to save a zero position offset, and next download the parameters and see if the M8084 value has changed. AS I stated above, I find the "Z=0" function to be superfluous with a properly adjusted platen.

But I think what you are saying is that in either case the Z height will begin printing in the proper spot *once calibrated* via M08084? Or am I missing something?

YES, with the caveat that it will ALWAYS travel to the physical, limit switch determined "zero" position first, an THEN rise tp the position established by the "Z=0" function or via the M8084 setup parameter.

I will not address the issue of "debris in the tank" as with a properly operated machine that is an impossible situation--the operator should always check the resin vat for debris and clear it if needed BEFORE printing.